Mount Fuji at sunset behind the Tokyo skyline

Japan,
the short version

Friends keep asking "what to do in Japan?" This is the answer. Stay in Tokyo, get out of Tokyo, eat well.

Stay in Tokyo, but get out of TokyoMake Tokyo your home for the trip, then take the train somewhere every few days and come back.
Stay in Roppongi / Akasaka-mitsukeCentral, walkable, lots of hotels, and never as crushed as Shinjuku or Shibuya at night.
Never Golden WeekLate April to early May. All of Japan travels at once: trains sold out, hotels tripled, queues everywhere.

1Get out of Tokyo

Kyoto is the obvious one and it's worth it. These are the ones people don't tell you about.

Red torii gates at Fushimi Inari, Kyoto
KyotoThe classic

Temples, gardens, Fushimi Inari's thousand red gates. Go early in the morning before the crowds, and stay a night or two rather than day-tripping.

All year
Illuminated snow sculptures at the Sapporo Snow Festival
SapporoMagic snow, delicious food

Hokkaido in winter is another country: powder snow, the Snow Festival in February, and the best seafood, miso ramen and soup curry in Japan. Bring real boots.

Winter
Turquoise sea and white sand on an Okinawa beach
OkinawaJapanese Hawaii

Turquoise water, its own food and its own pace. Naha is fun: Kokusai-dori at night, awamori, and the market. Winter is the trick: mild and empty while Tokyo shivers.

Winter
Yatai food stalls lit up at night in Nakasu, Fukuoka
FukuokaGood any time of year

The home of tonkotsu ramen and the yatai: open-air food stalls along the river where you sit next to strangers and eat until late. Relaxed, friendly, cheap.

All year
Kobe harbor waterfront with the Port Tower
KobeSan Francisco with hills

A port city squeezed between mountains and sea, with steep streets, old foreign houses in Kitano, a harbor to walk, and the beef you've heard about.

All year
Nagasaki harbor at night from Mount Inasa
NagasakiThe other San Francisco

Hills, a harbor, streetcars and old European houses in Glover Garden. Ride the ropeway up Mount Inasa for the night view, eat champon, and take the ferry to Gunkanjima, the abandoned island.

All year
Neon signs over the Dotonbori canal in Osaka
OsakaThe LA of Japan

Louder, funnier and hungrier than Tokyo. Dotonbori's neon, takoyaki and okonomiyaki on every corner, and people who actually talk to you. Half an hour from Kyoto.

All year
Kenroku-en garden in Kanazawa
KanazawaLittle Kyoto, minus the tourists

Kenroku-en, one of Japan's three great gardens, a preserved geisha district, a samurai quarter and a famous fish market. Everything Kyoto has, at a fraction of the crowd.

All year
Small towns are cute

Any small town you pass through will have a shrine, a local dish and an old street. Ask ChatGPT or Claude what to see there and it'll do better than a guidebook.

2If you want an onsen

One place. Don't overthink it.

Steaming hot spring water flowing through the Yubatake in Kusatsu
Kusatsu OnsenThe best hot springs

A mountain town built around a steaming hot-spring field in its centre. Sulphur baths, wooden inns, yukata in the street. A few hours from Tokyo, best as an overnight.

Map

3Where to eat in Tokyo

My favorites. Tap Map, go.

Hambagu omurice on a sizzling iron plate at NikutoTamago
Best hambagu
NikutoTamago
Shinjuku. A hot-plate hambagu on top of a fluffy omelette and rice, drowned in demi-glace. Eat it while it still hisses.
Map
A patty on the charcoal grill at Hikiniku to Come
Best hambagu
Hikiniku to Come
Shibuya. One dish only: charcoal-grilled patties served one at a time while you eat, endless rice, a raw egg. Register on their site the morning you go.
Map
A piece of tuna nigiri at Sushi Umiji
Omakase
Sushi Umiji
Azabu-juban. Sister of Michelin-listed Ginza Yamaji, open until 3am. Take the omakase or order piece by piece.
Map
The chef behind the counter at Shinjuku Sakaezushi
Best sushi
Sakaezushi
Shinjuku, since 1958. Old-school neighbourhood sushi, generous cuts, no theatre. Lunch sets are a steal.
Map
The bowl at Ramen Afro Beats: creamy broth, pink chashu, two eggs and a red paste
Best ramen
Ramen Afro Beats
Shinjuku. Tiny counter, loud music, rich creamy broth under folds of chashu. Buy a ticket at the machine, sit down, slurp.
Map
The sashimi lunch set at Aoi, Shinjuku Gyoen
Best washoku
Aoi Gyoen
Shinjuku Gyoen. Fish lunch on a tray: sashimi, tofu, pickles, miso, rice. Thirty servings a day, then they close the door. Dinner is omakase, reservation only.
Map
Grand piano and floor-to-ceiling windows at Bellovisto
Bar with a view
Bellovisto
Top of the Cerulean Tower in Shibuya, 40th floor. Live jazz, cocktails, and the whole city from Shinjuku to Tokyo Tower. Celebrities drink here, DiCaprio included.
Map
Skewers over binchotan charcoal at Toriguchi
Upscale yakitori
Toriguchi
Gotanda, five minutes from the west exit. Ten counter seats, rare cuts over binchotan charcoal, natural wine picked by a sommelier. Course only, book ahead.
Map

Chains that are actually delicious

Crab miso grilling in its shell at Isomaru Suisan
Seafood
Isomaru Suisan
Seafood izakaya, open 24 hours. You grill scallops, crab and squid yourself on a little stove at the table. Loud, cheap, fun.
Kizokuyaki chicken and leek skewers at Torikizoku
Yakitori
Torikizoku
Big chicken-and-leek skewers, the kizokuyaki, grilled to order. Every item on the menu is one low price, beer included. There's one near every station.

4One weird thing to do

Dr. Stretch

About $60 for an hour. A trained expert stretches you, properly, while you lie there. After a week of walking 20,000 steps a day it feels like a new body. Branches all over Tokyo.

Photo credits